The setting is how a diamond is held in place, and the two most common choices, the claw and the bezel, change how a piece looks, how much it sparkles, and how well it stands up to everyday wear. This guide explains what each one is and how to choose between them, whether the diamond sits in a ring, a pendant or a stud.
A claw setting, also called a prong setting, holds a diamond with small metal claws, letting in the most light for maximum sparkle. A bezel setting wraps a rim of metal around the stone, which is more secure and better protected for everyday wear, with slightly less brilliance. Put simply, claws favour sparkle and bezels favour security.
What is a claw setting?
A claw setting holds the diamond with several slim metal prongs, called claws, that grip it around the girdle, the widest edge of the stone. Most use four or six claws, and it is the classic, most familiar way to set a diamond. Because the claws touch the stone only at a few small points, they leave the sides open, so light enters from almost every angle and the diamond shows its full brilliance. If sparkle is the priority, the claw setting is hard to beat, which is why it has been the traditional choice for so long.
The trade-off is exposure. The same open design that lets in light also leaves the stone and the claws slightly more vulnerable. Claws can catch on clothing, hair or a bag, and over years of wear a claw can bend or thin, which is why a claw setting is worth having checked by a jeweller now and then so nothing works loose. A claw setting is also called a prong setting, and the two terms mean the same thing.
What is a bezel setting?
A bezel setting holds the diamond inside a continuous rim of metal that wraps around its girdle, either fully or partly. Instead of gripping at a few points, the metal encircles the whole stone, which makes the bezel the most secure and protective of the common settings. The rim shields the edge of the diamond from knocks, sits smooth against the skin so it will not snag, and is easy to keep clean, all of which makes it especially suited to everyday wear and busy hands.
The trade-off runs the other way from the claw. Because metal covers the sides of the stone rather than leaving them open, a little less light reaches the diamond, so a bezel can look very slightly less brilliant than the same stone held in claws. A half bezel, where the metal wraps only two sides and leaves the others open, is a popular middle ground that keeps much of the protection while letting in more light.
Claw vs bezel, at a glance
| Setting | Strengths and trade-offs |
|---|---|
| Claw | Maximum sparkle, classic look, shows more of the stone. Can snag, and needs occasional checking. |
| Bezel | Most secure and protected, smooth, low maintenance, can look a touch larger. Slightly less light and sparkle. |
| Half bezel | A middle ground. More light than a full bezel, more protection than claws. |
Which is better for everyday wear?
For a piece worn every day, or on active hands, a bezel usually has the edge, because protection matters more the more a piece is worn. This is the point where it helps to know something people often assume the opposite of: a diamond is the hardest natural material there is, but hard is not the same as unbreakable. Hardness means a diamond resists scratches better than anything else, but it says nothing about toughness, which is resistance to chipping and breaking. A diamond has natural planes along which a sharp, well-placed knock can chip or even fracture it, and the thin edge of the girdle and any pointed corners are the most vulnerable spots of all.
That is exactly what a setting protects. A bezel guards the girdle all the way around, which is why it suits studs and pendants that are worn constantly and knocked without a thought, as well as anyone hard on their hands. It also protects the delicate points and corners of shapes like the marquise, pear, princess and heart, which our guide to diamond shapes covers. A claw setting is perfectly secure too when it is well made and looked after, it simply leaves a little more of the stone exposed, so it rewards the occasional check.
Does a bezel make a diamond look bigger, and is it less sparkly?
Both of these come up often, and the honest answers are yes and slightly. A bezel can make a diamond look a little larger, because the metal rim frames the stone and extends its outline, so the eye reads the whole framed area as the diamond, an effect that is strongest when the metal colour is close to the colour of the stone. At the same time, because the rim covers the sides, a bezel does let in a little less light than claws, so it can look marginally less brilliant.
Neither effect is dramatic. A well cut diamond in a well made bezel still sparkles beautifully, since most of a diamond's light returns through the open top, not the covered sides, and cut is what governs that, as our guide to the 4Cs explains. If you want the protection of a bezel with a touch more light, the half bezel is the setting that gives you both.
How to choose between them
There is no better setting, only the one that suits the piece and the person. Weigh sparkle against security, and think about how and where the diamond will be worn.
Choose a claw setting for maximum sparkle and a classic look, and be willing to have the claws checked from time to time. Choose a bezel for the most protection and the easiest everyday wear, especially for studs, pendants and active hands, accepting a touch less brilliance. If you want a balance of both, a half bezel sits neatly in between. All are secure when they are well made.
Once the setting is settled, the stone itself still does most of the work, so it is worth reading how to choose a diamond next, within our wider guide to diamonds. You can see both settings in our diamond pendants and studs, where a diamond is held close in a smooth bezel or fine claws.
