Pearls are softer and more delicate than other gems, so they ask for a little more care, but the rules are simple and easy to live with. This guide covers how to clean pearls, the one golden rule of wearing them, what to keep them away from, and how to store them, so a pearl piece stays beautiful for generations.
Pearls are soft and porous, so they need gentle care. Put them on last, after perfume and cosmetics, and take them off first. Wipe them with a soft, slightly damp cloth after each wear, never soak them or use an ultrasonic cleaner or harsh chemicals, and store them in a soft pouch. Cared for simply, pearls last for generations.
Why pearls need gentle care
A pearl is not a hard mineral like a diamond or a sapphire, but a soft, organic gem made of layers of nacre grown by a living mollusc. On the Mohs hardness scale it sits at only around 2.5 to 4.5, which is soft enough to scratch easily, and its surface is slightly porous, so it can absorb liquids and be dulled or eaten into by acids and chemicals. That is the reason behind every rule below: perfume, hairspray, cosmetics, sweat and household chemicals are a pearl's main enemies, and a little thought about when they touch the pearl makes all the difference.
The golden rule: last on, first off
If you remember only one thing about pearls, make it this. Put your pearls on last, once you have finished applying perfume, hairspray, moisturiser and make-up, so none of it lands on the pearls. Then take them off first when you get home, before you do anything else, so they spend as little time as possible against the chemicals and oils on your skin. This single habit, last on and first off, protects pearls from almost everything that harms them, and it is exactly how jewellers advise looking after them.
How to clean pearls
Cleaning pearls is a matter of a gentle wipe, not a wash. After each wear, run a soft, very slightly damp cloth over them to lift off any perspiration or residue, and let them dry fully before putting them away. If they need a deeper clean, dampen a soft cloth with lukewarm water and the smallest amount of very mild soap, wipe each pearl gently, then wipe again with a clean damp cloth and dry. The key is never to soak or submerge pearls, because water can seep behind the pearl and into the string, and never to use a steam or ultrasonic cleaner, which can damage the nacre. If a strand is very dirty or dull, a jeweller who knows pearls can clean it safely.
What to avoid
A short list of things to keep away from pearls covers most of the risk. Avoid getting perfume, hairspray, cosmetics and lotions on them, keep them well away from chlorine, bleach, vinegar and any harsh household chemical, and never use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner or abrasive products. Do not wear pearls in the shower, the pool or the sea, or while doing the dishes or cleaning, since prolonged water and chemicals harm both the pearl and the silk they are strung on. Hot water and direct heat are best avoided too.
Storing your pearls
How you store pearls matters as much as how you wear them. Keep each piece in a soft cloth or a lined pouch, apart from your harder jewellery, because a diamond or a gold clasp will scratch a pearl in a shared box. Lay pearl strands flat rather than hanging them, so the silk does not stretch over time. And, perhaps surprisingly, do not seal pearls away in an airtight plastic bag or a bank vault for years on end, since pearls contain a little moisture and very dry, sealed air can cause the nacre to dry out and even craze. A breathable pouch in a normal drawer is ideal.
Wearing and restringing your pearls
Two last things keep pearls at their best over the years.
Wear your pearls, because a little natural moisture from your skin actually helps keep the nacre from drying out, so pearls kept in a drawer for decades fare worse than pearls that are worn and loved. And have a strand that is worn often restrung every few years, since the silk gradually weakens and stretches, and good strands are knotted between the pearls so that if the string ever breaks, only one pearl can come loose. Beyond that, last on and first off, a soft wipe, and a soft pouch are all a pearl needs.
Caring for pearls sits within our wider guide to pearls, alongside our guides to the types of pearls and cultured vs natural pearls. For the gold they are set in, see caring for gold, and for other stones, caring for gemstones. You will find cultured pearls set in solid gold across our pearl bracelets, pearl studs and pearl pendants.
